
Kalalau dusk
Aloha! This time I take you on a visual tour of one of the greatest adventures I’ve ever been on. There is no doubt Hawaii is one of the world’s most beautiful places. Each island holds its own unique natural beauty and character.

Kauai is the northern most island of the chain. It is known as the “garden isle” and its beauty has made the island a favorite location for hollywood films. Jurassic Park, Avatar, Six Days Seven Nights, and the upcoming Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides, all have scenes that were filmed in Kauai.

Kalalau Valley
The Napali Coast is located along the northwest side of Kauai. There you will find the Kalalau Trail. The trail provides the only land access traversing 11 miles and crossing 5 major valleys (and many smaller ones) before reaching Kalalau Beach at the base of the Kalalau Valley. If you ask me, this tiny spot on Earth is the epitome of paradise.

Kalalau trail map

Kalalau beach and caves
Don’t let this beauty fool you. Hiking the trail is no joke! There are reports of deaths and missing people. There is no cellphone signal. It is extremely physically demanding and it puts you face to face with the forces of mother nature. But it is so WORTH IT!
This hike will put your physical limits to the test. Every aspect of fitness is challenged and depleted. ENDURANCE and STAMINA are at the top. Mental toughness is also challenged. I have never participated in any official Triathlon, but I believe this hike sure as hell gives the Ironman a run for its money! It was my version of the Ultra Ironman.
Not only does this hike require an above average fitness level, but it requires survival awareness and strategy. Internally, you need to be aware of your fatigue level (especially when carrying a backpack that can weigh 50+ pounds). Proper nutrition and HYDRATION IS A MUST if you want to make it to the end. Preventing, or maintaining those nagging, chronic injuries is crucial. You can have knee soreness, back spasms, foot blisters (the worst), cramps, etc.. All which happened to me and they will happen to you.
Externally, you need be constantly aware of your surroundings: wild animals, terrain steadiness, trail width, the heat, the rain, the rivers, the trees and branches, the mud, the bugs, the rocks, the sink holes, and the slippery slopes just to name a few. Knowledge of your location is vital as well. Basic land navigation skills should be acquired (learn how to read a map).
Most importantly, NEVER attempt this hike alone. Having one buddy with you at the very minimum. You need to take care and watch out for each other’s lives. Selfishness on the trail is stupid! Share nutrients and tools!

meet Chris
My hike inward began on Thursday morning, May 31, 2007, at the base of the trail. There were three of us. My cousin Chris, a formidable Yoga instructor, a friend named Ana, and myself. Only Chris knew what this hike was all about because he had experienced it one year prior. Ana and I were in for a surprise! Chris was well prepared. He had packed two huge backpack-camelbak combinations that each weighed about 80 pounds. I had a backpack from home that was only about 40 pounds. Back in Miami, I bought a box of Power Bars to munch on during the hike. There were 12.


Chris and I carried the 80 pound backpacks and Ana carried the 40 pounder. Keep in mind, this entire journey consisted of hiking up and down mountains, in and out of valleys, crossing over rivers with stepping-stones (or swimming when we fell), sipping on water from our camelbak every 5 minutes, sliding on mud, climbing on rock, and jumping over crevices that would surely end our lives if we didn’t make it. Our balance was continuously tested. Fortunately, there are major land marks every couple of miles consisting of either a beach, a valley, a river, or a campground.

2 mile beach at Hanakapiai

falls crossing at 2 mile
At 4 mile mark by a boulder, one more person joined us. A Botany grad who attended the University of Manoa, Hawaii (though he was from Puerto Rico). Having a botany grad on the team was helpful because he would educate us on poisonous plants, edible plants, and plants that can be used as tools. His name was Walid.

Chris and I (mainly Chris) would alternate taking the lead. I remember coming up to 6 mile, I had been ahead of the group for quite a while and I decided to take a break for them to catch up. When I took off the backpack, my upper back muscles were numb and spasming (if that’s even a word). It took a while for the pain to subside which set us back about 30 minutes. There, a married couple from the Florida Keys had asked to join us on the hike. I can’t remember their names. They were nice and offered food (trail mix). Our group was now 6.

Hanakoa Falls at 6 mile
Although all the beaches and valleys along this trail are part of the Napali Coast State Park, which requires a paid permit for each day that you’re inside, you will find that many people don’t register or pay. If you get caught by the state park police you will be given a ticket or be arrested depending on your condition. We were some of those people. (lol). The police do not waste their energy hiking the trail, they use boats and can arrive at any point along the trail with ease. Luckily, we had not encountered such a threat, yet.
Also, you will randomly bump into illegal nudists hiking the trail. If you’re okay with communicating with them, the “nudists” actually have tons of experience and can give advice about the land, food, do’s and don’ts. Come on, we’re all human!
Moving forward. The darkness of the night creeped up on us. We were coming up on the scariest part of the trail. It appeared as if a landslide was about to occur from up in the mountains, demolishing the trail, and into the Pacific Ocean. The trail itself was disappearing and we were slipping and holding on to each other, and for our dear lives. Ironically enough, a wild goat was running up and down this part of the trail in a joyous fashion, as we humans were fighting for a lives. It’s funny to think about afterwards. There are many advantages to having four legs and a “wild” sense of humor.

whatever you do, don't look down

I told you not to look down

It was a race against time and darkness to the 8 mile mark. It was high ground and there is safety at 8 mile; a helipad, a camp ground, and a flat grassy part of the cliff. We began to lose our sense of direction and took a couple of wrong turns, but with the help of flash lights, we made it well past sunset and posted our sleeping mats on the flat grass and knocked out. I felt physically exhausted.


8 mile, where we slept
It was Friday morning, June 1st, 2007. We woke up to a beautiful sunrise (you can see both the sunset to the left and the sunrise to the right from the north side of the island), the fresh smell of nature, the sound of the pacific ocean, and of course, our lovely friend, the wild goat who somehow found us at dawn and was making goat noises (he was our alarm clock).

Might I add, there were also two full-blown rainbows over the pacific.

I felt particularly refreshed and restored. I decided to take the lead even though Chris was the one with the terrain knowledge. I felt great as if I was on a mission to conquer the world, but really just wanted to give myself a good workout. There were only 3 miles to go. On average I was ahead of the group about 100 yards. The hike transformed from a coastal forest to beautiful iron-reddish cliffs and hills. This was roughly between miles 9-10. The trail was once again disappearing and became switchback trails (one of the many along the 11 miles).

looking back and up the red hill

looking down the red hill
Finally, I can see something spectacular in the distance. It was the end of the Kalalau Valley merging into the trail. On the other side of the trail was Kalalau Beach. Keep in mind these photos do no justice to the real thing.


looking down Kalalau Valley

getting close

even closer
Knowing the crew was following well behind in the distance, I hiked on through passed the camp grounds, passed the infamous “hippie” waterfall, hiked on the beach, dropped my backpack at the base of a cave, and walked into the cave where you can see the entire beach. I dropped down and laid there knowing my 24 hour journey was over. Or was it?

Kalalau campground and fire circle

"hippie" waterfall

Kalalau Beach (rocks and caves in the distance)

passed the rocks, looking back
After an hour or so, Chris found me laying there. From afar he yelled, “Javi, there you are, everyone has set up back by the campground. Are you okay?” I replied in a burnt-out voice, “never been better”, then a pause, “I’m going to just lay here for a bit”, he said, “Ok, I’ll just take your backpack over to the tents”. I replied, “you’re awesome man!”

make a right turn

there

a caveman's paradise
Stay tuned for part 2!
I will discuss the six days we camped in Kalalau, what our diet consisted of, and the hike back to civilization. This time it was only Chris and I on the return. That’s a dangerous combination of characters. I hope to find the photos I took with a disposable camera during the trip. I will post them in part 2.
“A hui hou” (see you later in Hawaiian)
(Copyright 2011 by Javier Fleites/Mr. Workout. All Rights Reserved. This material may not be published, broadcasted, rewritten or redistributed without permission.)